Nel Restaurant Information

Nel, on the blurry cusp of the CBD and Surry Hills, is offering a tasting menu only. Three amuse bouche, four savoury dishes, two desserts and petit fours for $88. It's a brave move given most deg-only establishments are at a much higher price point and special occasion venues for most. That's not to say Nel isn't special. It's the brainchild of northern Brit Nelly Robinson whose light approach to contemporary cooking takes one on a flight of fancy, rather than falling into fatigue. The super smart subterranean site is somewhat semi-industrial. Think copper, leather, exposed brickwork, quaint bar, gorgeous wooden chairs and very open kitchen. In fact we're seated so close to the action we score a free suntan courtesy of the heat lamps. The service is switched on, and the wine list surprisingly approachable and adventurous in the same breath. Robinson's food is whimsical and retrospective, yet very now. It starts with a quail egg and kombu powder, cured salmon, roe and puffed salmon skin and a cheeky play on pea and ham soup - pork hock, trotters and head braised, pressed, crumbed and fried. It's a tad dry, but saved by pea puree. The sweet, delicate glory of spanner crab is elevated by a touch of chilli and slivers of daikon, while mushroom and truffle dumplings wade in a sweeter than expected mushroom consommé. Chef sneaks in a teaspoon of treacle just like his mother did in her mushroom soup in his youth. A parmesan crisp restores balance. Venison is rolled, frozen, shaved and placed on a bed of pepper, crumbed chocolate and pickled red cabbage - it's a fine example of keeping the food lively - not heavy, when a guest is in for the long haul. Even the braised beef cheek and oxtail sourdough sandwich eats lightly. Although I could do without the naff pop and crackle of pop rocks in the pistachio, cherry and white corn dessert, it makes a nice finale. But I like this kind of bravery. Nel cleverly bridges the gap between local and groundbreaking - at an appetising price point.