Poppet's Window Information

At Estelle by Scott Pickett (ESP) in Northcote the sophisticated sibling of Estelle Bistro next door (formerly Estelle) the whole is more than the sum of its parts. Thats not to say the parts arent impressive: theres a light fixture by Christopher Boots reminiscent of the illuminative trail created by sparklers in photos; wine glass storage that doubles as art cut into concrete wall tiles and a calligraphy E engraved into custom Laguiole knives and hand-stitched on charcoal napkins. With black marble, black steel and luxurious black banquets, this is the kind of place where money wants to be seen and people come to be spoilt. But at $130 a head for polished service and seven courses of some of Melbournes most refined food, its bloody good value. Along with architects Hirsch Bedner Associates , Pickett designed the space around his dream kitchen, which is as open as they come and overflowing with a copper pot collection worth more than my life savings. Theres space for 50 diners and while groups can sit on locally designed chairs at locally designed tables, couples can bask in the drama of the kitchen at the raised bar seating. Up here theres plenty of room for elbows, a great vantage point for people watching and the opportunity to giggle at Pickett the potty-mouth. Its also wide enough to ensure that clumsy gestures dont result in wasted alcohol as you progress through wine-matched menu (booze assembled by sommelier James Dossan at $90 for Premier or $120 for Grand). Speaking of staff, customers are in especially good hands with front-of-house guru Stuart Neil. Always friendly and constantly calm under pressure, those with a keen eye might notice hes one of few Pickett doesnt raise his voice at in the heat of the kitchen. Back in front of the flame, Pickett, who also co-owns Saint Crispin in Collingwood with Joe Grbac, is joined by head chef Josh Pelham, and together they squeeze every inch of flavour from the kind of produce weve come to expect from Melbourne restaurants: seasonal, local and exemplary of ...